Northern Lights

The house lights dim, the crowd grows hushed, and smoke hangs over the empty stage like dust in the air before a coming storm. Suddenly, from way in the back, the sweet sound of a single saxophone bursts to life. Heads swivel and necks crane, trying to get a glimpse at the source of this magical sound. As the soft tones grow louder, a lone musician snakes his way through the crowd. Soon, the music flows, the band grooves, and the crowd goes wild. Although it feels like NYC in the 60s, we are in the Hanoi Opera House, in 2005 Vietnam. A new cultural revolution is alive and well.

However, unlike China of the 60s and 70s, this is cultural revolution is different. After decades of repression and authoritarianism, Vietnam is discovering the arts. It’s the antithesis of Mao; an awakening of national proportions. Parks filled with sculptures, a profusion of art galleries, an abundance of theatres, and a burgeoning music scene stand as evidence of the change.

Hanoi has long been known as The Paris of the Orient for its French Colonial architecture, prolific bakeries, tree-lined streets, and omnipresent baguette vendors. However the moniker was incomplete until the recent explosion of cultural offerings. Now a visitor to Hanoi really can feel Parisian, as she spends the day browsing museums, lunching at sidewalk cafes, and soaking up the arts.

The artist at the Opera House was Quyen Thien Dac. He trained at the Berklee College of Music in Boston, and this was his homecoming. Vietnam is just learning about jazz, decades after the medium was established in the U.S. Dac plays all the classics – Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Thelonius Monk, Chick Corea – to educate the masses. At the same time, he has his own portfolio of superbly grooved tunes, many of which he performed with cool composure for us at the Opera House. Dac is a pioneer in Vietnam, and we feel fortunate to have been there to see the party.

Enjoy the Hanoi Photo Gallery.

Enjoy the video groove:
Dac Jam
Mellow
Solo
Water Puppet Theatre